China Focus: China's local cuisine law spices up global dining tables

Students practice making Sichuan cuisine at Sichuan Tourism University in Chengdu, southwest China's Sichuan Province, April 24, 2025. (Xinhua/Xu Bingjie)

CHENGDU, May 1 (Xinhua) -- When the master chef Lan Minglu received a video call from a U.S.-based recruiter offering 80,000 to 120,000 U.S. dollars a year, free food and accommodation plus paid leave for a Sichuan cuisine cook, he chuckled.

"Many of my students earn 1 million yuan (about 137,500 U.S. dollars) annually overseas," said Lan, from the Sichuan Tourism University (STU) in southwest China's Sichuan Province, advising the recruiter to reconsider the package.

Lan's confidence is not unfounded. Data shows that Sichuan cuisine accounts for 30 percent of the 700,000 Chinese restaurants overseas, captivating diners worldwide.

Now, China is betting on legislation to turbocharge this culinary empire. On May 1, Sichuan Province, home to Sichuan cuisine, enacted the country's first Sichuan cuisine industry promotion regulation to standardize the cuisine, protect heritage, encourage innovation and fuel global expansion.

The new law, consisting of 29 articles, addresses critical industry challenges, such as interdepartmental coordination for better development, industry chain improvement, talent training and skill preservation, and the promotion of culinary culture.

LEGISLATION FOR SPICY SECTOR

Sichuan cuisine leads China's culinary scene, with over 320,000 restaurants offering Sichuan flavor including hot pots, covering 92.2 percent of Chinese cities. In Sichuan alone, the food service industry led by its iconic Sichuan cuisine rose 6.9 percent to 384.6 billion yuan in 2024, contributing 22.6 percent to the province's retail sales growth.

"For such a massive, rapidly evolving industry, legislation is urgently needed to establish standards, integrate supply chains and preserve culinary heritage," said He Jianghua, a senior legislator from the Standing Committee of Sichuan Provincial People's Congress.

During the law drafting process, a work team conducted field surveys across multiple provinces and Sichuan cities, consulting with government agencies, industry associations, businesses and experts, and soliciting public feedback.

As He recalled, a master chef from a time-honored brand restaurant mentioned during the surveys that many young cooks had no idea about the traditional ratio of three kinds of peppers and three spices -- a basic for making Sichuan dishes.

"That comment made us realize that preserving these culinary traditions had to be the essence of the legislation," he said.

Addressing the master chefs' concerns, the regulation mandates the creation of a Sichuan cuisine database and signature dish catalog, enhanced protection for intangible cultural heritage and time-honored brands, the launch of a "Sichuan master chefs" program, and the establishment of master workshops.

SERVING GLOBAL DINERS

When the word "mala," a typical characteristic of Sichuan cuisine meaning numbing and spicy, entered the global culinary lexicon, Sichuan's signature spice officially became a world flavor.

The newly enacted regulation encourages Sichuan cuisine businesses to expand globally through cross-border e-commerce, opening overseas branches, establishing international warehouses and retail networks, and attending global food exhibitions.

Wang Wanming, brand director of the Haidilao's international market operator Super Hi International, said the legislation provides new opportunities for the hot pot giant's supply chain upgrades and global brand expansion.

Since opening its first overseas store in Singapore in 2012, Haidilao has opened 122 restaurants in 14 countries and regions, including the United States, the Republic of Korea, Japan and Britain.

"We hope to increase our customers' acceptance of Sichuan flavors with aroma, numbness, spiciness and freshness," he said.

INNOVATING WHILE HONORING HERITAGE

The legislation comes as the industry embraces both tradition and technology, providing strong support for preserving and innovating Sichuan cuisine.

As stipulated in the regulation, the provincial science and technology authorities, in collaboration with other departments, shall support the development of new ingredients, technologies, products, techniques and equipment for Sichuan cuisine through sci-tech programs while encouraging research institutions, enterprises and industry associations to advance culinary innovation.

Chengdu Catering Company, which owns the renowned Sichuan cuisine restaurant Rongle Garden, is currently cooperating with a hi-tech company to develop a cooking robot that prepares classic Sichuan dishes.

Luo Yanzi, the company's business planning manager, said dishes like Kung Pao Chicken will be cooked with 85 percent authenticity.

"Using robots doesn't contradict preserving intangible cultural heritage. If only the authentic flavor remains, it's still Sichuan cuisine," said Luo.

Li Xiang, dean of the College of Culinary and Food Science Engineering, STU, said the college is collaborating with robotics firms to develop smart cooking facilities. Researchers are analyzing Sichuan cuisine's 24 flavors at the molecular level to create standardized formulations for industrial production without losing authentic taste.

"The scientific approach combining cutting-edge technology with culinary tradition will help advance the industrial production of Sichuan cuisine," Li said. ■

People wait in line to dine at a Haidilao restaurant in Pasay City, Metro Manila, the Philippines, in January 2024. (Xinhua)

A teacher (R) instructs a student on making Sichuan cuisine at Sichuan Tourism University in Chengdu, southwest China's Sichuan Province, April 24, 2025. (Xinhua/Xu Bingjie)

People dine at a restaurant in Meishan City, southwest China's Sichuan Province, April 24, 2025. (Xinhua/Xu Bingjie)